Uncategorized

30.09.2024

8 Days Dogs, Cold & Northern Lights

This time, it won’t be a report about a specific tour, but rather a description of what this tour usually looks like, although in reality, every tour is a bit different. This can be due to adverse weather, the wishes of our guests, or other unforeseen events. In any case, I think all guests have enjoyed the tour so far, even if deep snow or wind has tested their limits along the way.

The stay always begins with a shared dinner, where not only do we get to know the guests, but they also get to know each other. This provides an opportunity to satisfy initial curiosity about our life with the dogs through questions and answers, and particularly to discuss what clothing would be good for the next day based on the current weather conditions. This introduction allows us to get a first impression of the guests, which will be the basis for the composition and assignment of the dog teams.

The next day, it gets serious. While one of us picks up the guests, the other prepares the dogs. The dogs wait at the stakeout in the correct order for the planned teams. The sleds are also ready. This has the advantage that each guest can initially focus on getting to know their four dogs, instead of being completely overwhelmed by a wildly running pack.

But before we start, there’s, of course, an introduction. How does sledding work? What is the most important thing? What is the second most important thing and the secret recipe for better riding? If you want to score points on your next tour, I’ll already share the answers 😉 The most important thing: never, and I mean NEVER, let go of the sled! The second most important thing: brake!

Next, we cover the commands, speed, distance, lines, etc. Most guests’ heads are already spinning a bit here, but unfortunately, it doesn’t work without explanation. Yet, there’s no need to overthink it. As long as you follow our instructions— which we often repeat or elaborate on during the tour— sledding isn’t that difficult.

Now finally, let’s talk about the dogs. Each one gets their harness put on. Attention is needed here as not every harness fits every dog. First of all, there are different sizes, which can be recognized by various color markings on the harnesses. Additionally, we have different models, as depending on the individual body shape, coat type, and running style, some dogs fare better with one type than another.

Oh, and by the way, your dogs have names too 😂 We understand that it can be hard to remember them all at the beginning with so much information, but later in the afternoon, you should take the time to learn them since you will be a team for the next few days.

So, the dogs are harnessed. Are you ready? Then put away your phone or camera, because the start requires full concentration and two free hands. Together, we’ll harness the dogs. We start with the last team and work our way forward. You will stay with your lead dogs until the guide team is ready, and you get the signal from Raffi or me to get on the sleds. And now, attention, we’re off! But remember to go one at a time and don’t forget to brake!

In the first few hundred meters, you will probably be completely overwhelmed by the boundless power of the dogs. You might forget how to steer around the corners without a steering wheel and somehow feel like you’re always going too fast or too slow 😬 but just wait and try to implement the instructions. It doesn’t take long before you get a feel for the sled and the brake; you’ll understand how weight shifting works and that braking doesn’t necessarily make you slower, but improves your riding.

After a few kilometers, you’ll also be able to take in the wonderful surroundings: the sparkling snow, the silence, the perfection of nature. Depending on the conditions, we usually cover around 20 km, plus or minus. At the beginning of winter, with deep snow and more difficult conditions, it might be a bit less, and at the end of winter, with faster trails, it might be a bit more. For most guests, this distance is perfect for the first day— long enough to get accustomed to sledding but not too long to be completely exhausted.

Back at the kennel, you can cuddle your dogs before they are unharnessed and allowed back into their warm huts. Depending on how strenuous it was for the dogs, they will either receive soup or food right away or a bit later, while you also get a snack (no, not the same soup 😂) and we warm up in our grill cabin. Afterwards, we prepare the equipment for the next days. Either we load the sleds today or the next morning, often depending on the weather. After that, you’ll return to the guesthouse. Together, we prepare dinner, and you’ll have another opportunity to ask questions for the upcoming days and prepare your personal items.

The next morning runs similarly to the first, with the difference that today you won’t be coming ‘home’ again. Our tour leads us to our first overnight stop, either in a tent or in a wilderness cabin. Here, too, the dogs are taken care of first; they will sleep at a stakeout during the tour. If it’s very cold, they’ll wear coats; otherwise, they simply enjoy lying in the snow. 

Next, it’s time to fetch water or melt snow. In some places, there are open springs or a lake where we can drill a hole; if not, we rely on snow. You’ll be surprised how many pots full of snow it takes to fill a thermos with water. And we’re not the only ones who need water; the dogs need it too. Those assigned to fetch water will have their hands full. But that doesn’t mean the rest of the group is idle. The fire needs to be lit and tended, meat chopped for the dogs’ dinner, and food prepared for the group. Not to mention that the cabins usually have a dry toilet and a woodshed, for which a path needs to be shoveled first.

Once the basics are taken care of, we’ll take time for the dogs again; we cuddle and massage them and check their paws for any injuries—this can also be done while taking off their harnesses. With a bit of luck, you might witness a beautiful sunset, or perhaps the Northern Lights will dance above us during our ‘work.’ Depending on our schedule, the dogs will get fed either before or after dinner. After that, not much happens. Believe me, even the night owls among you will fall into bed, or rather onto the sleeping mat, early.

The next morning, you have to get up early; the dogs need breakfast. While they digest, it’s our turn for breakfast, then we clean up and pack everything back onto the sleds. The start today basically goes the same way as the last two days, with the difference that there’s usually a second person at the kennel to help out and the chains stay there. On the tour, you’ll have to manage it alone and also collect the chains. But after two days of practice, you should be ready for this 😉.

We continue through marshes and frozen lakes, past birch and coniferous forests. Our daily distances on these tours range from about 25 to 60 km, always depending on the conditions and the guests’ wishes. If you’ve ‘survived’ the third night out, you can feel happy—or maybe a little sad? Because today, we head back to the kennel. After taking care of the dogs and giving them some last cuddles, you’ll probably be longing for a warm shower at the guesthouse.

Now you can relax, as the next day is free. Some guests book an excursion to see reindeers or go for a snowmobile ride. Most, however, simply enjoy the tranquility, grabbing snowshoes at some point during the day to walk to the kennel and spend a little more time with the dogs, maybe even feeding them one last time. But even if departure is on the agenda for the next day, it doesn’t have to be a farewell forever… the dogs and we are certainly looking forward to the next tour with you. Perhaps even the advanced version in the mountains?

Uncategorized

17.09.2024

Autumn is here 🍁🍃🍂

This year, autumn arrived quite early. By the end of August, the leaves had already started to change color. So, it was the perfect time to go for a hike again 🥾

Originally, I had planned the first week of September for the northernmost section of the Kungsleden trail, but just three or four days before, I got sick 🤧. Nothing serious, just a cold, but it was persistent. So, it was a sensible decision to postpone the Kungsleden hike. A week alone on a route with no mobile reception and initially rather poor weather forecast in a weakened state could easily lead to unpleasant situations. Of course, you’re almost never entirely alone on the Kungsleden, and I always carry a GPS emergency device with me, but there’s no need to take unnecessary risks. Instead, I considered taking a shorter trip of two or three days. And since I still had time, I came up with the idea of visiting our friends in Vilhelmina. It had been a few years since the last visit, and even though I had seen some of the dogs during a tour together, I was curious to see everyone again. As luck would have it, Simone had also planned to take a few days to go into the mountains with Yentna – a half-sister of Zazu. Perfect timing, I’d say 😉

So, on Thursday of the first week of September, which had turned out to be quite warm, I drove to Vilhelmina. Zazu was, of course, with me, as he would accompany me on the hike. We spent the day socializing the dogs and, naturally, catching up. On Friday morning, we set off toward Saxnäs. The plan was a three-day hike covering about 49 km.

The first day began with lots of undergrowth 😂. We started from the parking lot and immediately went off-trail. We were supposed to come across an old marked path shortly after, but it seemed really, really old, as there were no markings to be seen anywhere. Nor was there a path. So we battled through knee- to waist-high bushes or marshy areas that quickly soaked our feet. Well, mine, at least, since I had deliberately chosen not to wear Goretex and was hiking in trail runners. Sure, you get wet feet, but while walking, they warm up, and the shoes dry extremely fast. Okay, not when you’re constantly walking through water, but even Goretex shoes can’t handle that and don’t dry out afterward. 

So, we continued on our “path.” Occasionally, we spotted a marker, but they were so scarce that we had to constantly check the GPS to make sure we were still on the right track. Along the way, we came across lots of reindeer antlers and occasionally a reindeer too. But that was nothing compared to what was we will see the next day. Shortly before reaching our first stop, we decided to shorten the route and go straight „over the field“… which, to be honest, felt like what we had been doing all day anyway. We reached a river where we took a break and decided to camp there rather than walk the additional 1-2 km to the originally planned campsite.

We found a beautiful spot between two arms of the river, and just as we set down our backpacks, the sun came out and soon treated us to a stunning sunset. It had been quite warm all day, but luckily the sun had hidden behind some clouds for a while, making the hike much more comfortable. Though the day’s distance was only 14 km, it felt longer due to the lack of a trail and the trudging through bushes and swamps. So, after dinner, we quickly retreated to our tents ⛺️.

The night was quite windy, so I ended up bringing Zazu’s bag into the tent’s vestibule. It was heavy enough not to blow away and was sheltered anyway, but better safe than sorry. Zazu, of course, slept in the tent with me, and the wind didn’t seem to bother him during the night. However, in the morning, he got scared a few times by the flapping tent walls. So, after we had already stepped outside to take some sunrise photos, I decided we might as well get up. Conveniently, the wind had dried the tent completely, so I could take it down and pack it right away. We waited until Simone and Yentna were up, and after breakfast, we headed out for the next stage.

Soon, we reached a slightly better-marked trail. There were still lots of little waterholes and another river to cross, but that was all manageable. Shortly after, we encountered quite a few reindeer, over a hundred in total across several groups. Yentna barely paid any attention to them, and even Zazu stayed fairly calm, though he kept staring at them with great interest. After crossing the mountains, we started to descend slowly. The view into a colorful valley was lovely, though due to the fog and clouds, the colors didn’t come out as vividly in the photos.

And this is when I was reminded why I had sworn not to hike with Zazu anymore 🤣🙈. When a strong dog like Zazu pulls you downhill, you really have to watch your footing to avoid face-planting. So, we took it easy on the descent 😉.

Just before turning onto the Lapplandsleden, Simone spotted some chanterelles and couldn’t resist picking them. Although we had packed mushrooms for dinner, fresh ones are always better 😋. Afterward, the trail was much better marked and led mostly through the forest, which provided nice shade from the now-shining sun ☀️.

Not long before we planned to stop for the night, we came to a river that was missing a bridge for crossing. This sometimes happens with smaller streams or shallow water, but this river was fairly deep and fast-flowing. So, we walked upstream for quite a while but couldn’t find a suitable crossing point, so we went back and then walked downstream. It took a while, but eventually, we found a spot that was shallow enough for us to cross easily. The advantage of already wet trail runners is that you can just leave them on 😂.

We walked a little further to the next river and set up camp after 21 km. As soon as we sat down in front of our tents, we had visitors. Two curious reindeer came by to check us out. After dinner, we quickly retired to the tents again.

This time, the night was completely quiet, with only the sound of the river nearby. The next morning was extremely damp. It was so foggy that everything felt clammy, and the tent was pretty wet. Oh well, since it was the last night of our trip anyway, we just packed it up wet. Not that it would have dried in the next few hours.

The day’s stage began with a climb that would have surely offered a fantastic view of the Borgafjäll valley behind us, had it not been so foggy that we couldn’t see anything at all. But as we climbed higher, the fog started to lift, at least in front of us. And suddenly, another group of reindeer appeared, majestically crossing our path.

After the climb, we began descending again and approached a forested area, which was ablaze with beautiful autumn colors. After crossing the last major river – this time over a bridge 🤣 – we took a short break at a shelter. From there, it was only about 4 km to the parking lot. However, those kilometers included a fairly steep climb that we hadn’t expected from the map. But what the heck, if nothing else, it gave us something to complain about 😉.

At the parking lot, we let the dogs cool off a bit before heading back to the kennel. The three days had passed far too quickly. But it was a great trip with perfect hiking weather and wonderful company.

When I drove home the next day, the other dogs were eagerly awaiting me. But we had to wait two more days for the next training session since it was so warm that even at night, it exceeded our training limit temperatures.

By last weekend, it had cooled down to near freezing… But what kind of autumn is this? It’s warm again, so we’ve had to move training to the night or early morning hours. And even then, it’s still quite warm. Let’s hope it cools down as the forecast promises for next week.